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Flower garden along Lake Lucerne |
Lucerne is
a beautiful, well-kept town. The long walkway along the lakeshore
was lined with gardens and had wonderful vistas of the surrounding
alpine scenery. It was hard to believe that we were only about 1,500
feet above sea level! |
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Lake Lucerne |
As noted before,
Lake Lucerne is a glacial trough, carved during the four advances of
ice during the Pleistocene epoch between 12 thousand and 2 million
years ago. The sediments in the bottom of this very deep lake
contain evidence not only of climate change in the last 12,000
years, but also a record of seismic activity, in the form of
underwater landslide deposits. A magnitude 6 quake in 1601 caused a
10 foot high tsunami along the lake's shoreline. |
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Mt.
Pilatus from the porch of our hotel |
One of my
complaints about alpine landscapes is that sometimes it is difficult
to keep powerlines out of the view! Mt. Pilatus rises almost 6,000
feet about the shores of Lake Lucerne. It is part of the thrust
fault system of rocks that have been pushed up and over the
sediments and crust to the north. As the mountains were being pushed
up for the first time, the earliest mountains shed debris and
sediment as flysch and molasse deposits which were
later over-ridden by those same mountains as they were pushed
northwards. |
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A
bit of science.... |
In other words,
the rugged upper slopes of Pilatus, composed of contorted limestone
layers, are older, and are sitting on top of the softer
underlying younger sediments. This diagram is a geological
cross-section of Pilatus. |
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Tramway to Pilatus |
The tramway climbs
Pilatus in two parts, the lower in 4-person cars, and the upper part
in...well...we couldn't see that part yet. The lower tram hugged the
topography, rarely more than a few tens of feet off the ground.
Heck, this wasn't so scary! We passed quiet meadows with grazing
cows (the cowbells were a distinctive sound), and nicely kept farm
houses. Occasionally we passed over hikers climbing the mountain the
hard way. |
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View towards Lucerne |
A look behind us
confirmed that we had climbed a considerable distance up the flanks
of the mountain. We could see the north shore of Lake Lucerne and
the site of our hotel. 'What a beautiful clear day', I thought, but
I shouldn't have. There's Murphy's Law to contend with. Looking up
the mountain, I could see the clouds building up! |
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The
second tram station |
We arrived at the
transfer station where we would be catching the trams that would
take us to the summit of the mountain. Looking up the hill from the
tram station, I noticed what I thought were telephone or electrical
wires...then I noticed something was moving...that little dot up in
the cloud... |
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The
upper gondola |
...was the gondola
car, which was carrying somewhere around 40 people. My arrogance of
not being nervous on a tram of any sort was about to dissipate.... |
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Leaving the tram station |
But, what was to
be done? I was gonna see that mountain-top. We crowded into the
claustrophobic little cabin and headed up the acrophobic cable up
the mountain. We rose quickly into the air. |
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Where did everything go? |
And just
like that, the world disappeared...we rose into the clouds that had
been building all morning, and it was just strange. The cable to
which we hung disappeared into the cloud above us, and below us.
There was no sense of height, of gaping depths...there was just
grayness all around. And now I was getting upset...would there be
nothing visible from the summit? Darn it, I had been waiting more
than a year for this moment, and I felt a rising sense of
disappointment...
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Overview of the summit complex on Pilatus |
We arrived at the
top station still enveloped in fog, and nothing was visible at all.
Oh, well. Maybe a walk to the summit another 100-200 feet up? I
start climbing up the steep trail, and the sun starts to come out!
We can see the summit complex, the store, hotel and tram station! |
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Summit ridge trail |
And, yes! The
clouds are clearing and I can see the high Alps in the distance! |
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Summit View |
I heard someone
ahead of me say "Wow!". I turned the corner and said "WOW"! The high
Alps were playing hide-and-seek with the clouds. It was a glorious
sight. |
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Sustenhorn and Titlis |
It has taken some
map work and Google-Earthing to get myself oriented, but I have
started to identify some of the mountain peaks on the skyline.Sustenhorn
on left and Titlis on right |
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Titlis |
Titlis (3,238 m).
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Triftgletscher?
I am still working on this one! |
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Gathering our wits |
Why are
these fine people smiling, and yet at the same time experiencing
trepidation? Well, they are sitting in the cogwheel train about to
go down the steepest railway in the world, with some slopes greater
than 45 degrees. Remember that feeling on the top of a roller
coaster, or the log ride, or Thunder Mountain? It was kind of like
that.... |
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Over the edge! |
And down we
plunged!....slid!.....er....careened!....well, crept. As steep as it
was, it was not fast, and not as scary as you would think. It's not
like we were hanging in open space hundreds of feet above the
rocks.... |
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Avalanche Tunnel |
The upper slopes
of Pilatus are exceedingly steep, so avalanche protection is a
necessity.... |
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Limestone cliffs |
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Access road on lower slopes |
Does somebody mow
this grass?? The lower slopes have a really manicured look about
them. |
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Lucerne Lake |
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